Stringing A Classic Guitar

When and why do guitar strings need to be changed? These are the three main reasons:

If a string breaks.

If the wire windings of the 4th, 5th or 6th strings become worn.

The intonation or quality of sound has deteriorated.

For some inexplicable reason the 4th string wears quicker than any of the others. This is the first of the wire wound strings and is a good indicator of time to change at least the 4th, 5th & 6th strings.

It is not always necessary to change all of the strings at the same time. I find that it is sometimes possible to keep the top three strings of the guitar fitted over three changes of the lower three strings.

Generally, it is not good practice to change all strings at the same time because strings settle over time and it is good to maintain at least some strings with tuning stability. As a general rule I recommend that the lower three strings (4th, 5th & 6th) are changed first and allowed to settle, followed by the top three strings (1st, 2nd & 3rd).

What I mean by allow the strings to settle is this. When strings are first fitted, the tuned note will drop repeatedly over several days and you will need to check and re-tune each time you pick up the guitar. Strings 4, 5 & 6 will settle quicker than 1, 2 & 3 which is why I recommend these are changed first.

What strings are best? My personal recommendation is D'Addario Pro Arte EJ45 strings (normal tension). You can buy these online with a choice of other excellent guitar strings here

Changing the 4th, 5th & 6th Strings (wire wound)

Remove the strings by slackening off at the machine heads until they can be pulled through the tuning peg and released from the bridge.

Fitting Step 1 (the bridge)

Remove the 6th string from its wrapper and uncoil. You will notice one end has flexible sections which is the bridge end.

Thread the new string through the bridge. It is easiest to thread the
other end of the string through from the back of the bridge towards
the headstock first and pull it right through.

Next pull the tail of the string over the bridge, loop around the string at the front of the bridge and pull back.

 Now tuck the end under at the back of the bridge to complete the tie.

The same procedure also applies to the 5th and 4th strings.

Watch this brief video of the sequence

Fitting Step 2 (the headstock)

Pull the string up to the headstock and insert downwards through the hole in the peg of the first machine head winder (nearest to the nut).

Take the end of the string, wrap it round to the front and right of the other part of the string, now cross the string to the left

hold in place with your index finger and wind the machine head in a counter clockwise direction such that with each rotation of the peg the wound string passes over the string-end to lock it in position.

The same procedure also applies to the 5th and 4th strings but to maintain the best string position over the nut, pull the string end to the right rather than the left.
 

Watch this brief video of the sequence

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